Only eleven miles long and, at its widest, six miles across, the island has a total surface area of 44 square miles and a population of something over three thousand. It was discovered in 1502 by the Portuguese navigator, Juan de Nova Castella, on the birthday of Constantine's mother, St. Helena, after whom he named it. The navigators, constantly on the lookout for places where fresh water, vegetables and meat could be obtained, recognised the possibilities of the island, and left a number of donkeys, goats and pigs there.
The first recorded person to live on the island was the unfortunate Fernandez Lopez who was left to fend for himself as well as he could eleven years after its discovery. This nobleman, having incurred disgrace for deserting his post, was condemned and punished by having his nose, ears, right hand and the little finger of his left hand cut off! He preferred this punishment to returning to his fatherland to face the ignominy that awaited him there. However, from the records it appears that he was not left entirely to the mercy of the lonely island, but was 'duly supplied with negro slaves, pigs, goats, poultry, partridges, guinea-fowls, pheasants, peacocks, vegetables, roots, fig, orange and peach trees'. If this statement is true, one wonders how, under the navigational conditions of the time, such a variety of animals was available. Four years later he was allowed to return to Portugal.
Portugal kept St. Helena as a port of call for homeward-bound ships. Doubtless some of the animals and plants left survived and provided the sailors with fresh meat and fruit even if only in small quantities, and, of course, there was a good supply of fresh water.
It was on the island that the first Christian church south of the equator was built. The well known landmark of Jamestown, St. James's Cathedral, stands, according to - legend, on the site of the original church. During 1591 Captain Kendall, on his way to India, was forced to put into the Cape of Good Hope owing to the severe incidence of scurvy amongst his men. Kendall decided to send most of the desperately sick sailors back to England and, on the return voyage, they called at the island where they found plenty of wild pigs, goats and various kinds of vegetables, and most of them recovered speedily. However, one of them was in such a desperate plight that it was decided to leave him on the island - another exile like Lopez. However, instead of dying as expected, he recovered to meet his end through joy and happiness'. When Captain Cavendish reached the island with two ships on 3rd April, 1593, his men were amazed to hear someone singing in the chapel. When they came upon a man in the little building, it is debatable whose surprise was greater, the forlorn singer's or the weary sailors'. They recognised him as a fellow countryman and among the sailors were some he had known in the past. The excitement was too much for John Legar. The sight of his countrymen and the thought of once more seeing his homeland overwhelmed him and after eight sleepless nights, he died of exhaustion and debility.
From 1603 onwards, many nations, particularly the English, Spanish and Dutch, became more and more interested in the island, for the Portuguese, fired by dreams of more profitable conquests, had abandoned it. It became of special interest to the Dutch as a refreshment station until 1651 when their plans were well advanced for the establishment of a halfway station at the Cape of Good Hope. Keen rivalry between the Dutch and British East India Companies developed until the latter, appreciating the importance of the lonely outpost, decided to annex it, and it was occupied with a capital outlay of UK Pounds 72 000. About 1610 a charter from Charles II secured its use for the British East India Company. Forts were erected and immigrants arrived from England. These early settlers proved the island to be of great value in producing fresh supplies which the Company, in turn, sold to calling ships at considerable profit to itself. The Dutch became jealous. The Dutch East India Company was, at the time, riding high with its successes and vast profits, and attacked and took possession of the island in 1665. Twelve months later the English retook it. Having learnt an expensive lesson, they lost no time in building more sophisticated fortifications. The year 1666 saw the Great Fire of London and, as a result, many of the homeless emigrated to St. Helena. Seven years later the Dutch once more gained possession of it but only after overcoming the gallant resistance of the islanders who defended it tooth and nail. The Governor, Anthony Beale, and his party were besieged in Jamestown and surrendered, eventually escaping on some English ships bound for Brazil. On the way they met a squadron commanded by Captain Munden to whom they related the story of the island's capture. Captain Munden immediately altered course and sailed to St. Helena on 14th May, 1673 with 200 men and two guns. He succeeded in landing his force at night, surprised the Dutch and, after superhuman efforts, again took possession. Whilst Captain Munden was still on the island, a new Governor, sent out by the Dutch East India Company, arrived with several richly laden vessels. Unaware of the English occupation, he found himself a prisoner whilst his vessels with their treasure were a welcome addition to the English coffers. Again Charles II granted a charter giving the right of possession of the island to the British East India Company. This cumbrous document dated 16th December, 1673, can still be seen at the Castle in Jamestown.
The history of St. Helena henceforth is a most colourful and chequered one. It is most regrettable that no one has yet been inspired to compile a book from the existing records which provide the most interesting day to day accounts of the sorrows and joys of the island and its people.
The arrival of Colonel Wilks on 22nd June, 1813, will remain a red letter day in the island's history, for it was during his term of office that the attention of the world was focused on this lonely volcanic outcrop in the South Atlantic, for fate had decreed that Colonel Wilks would act as host to the world's most famous prisoner of war - Napoleon. The arrival of Napoleon was unexpected. The news of his victories, and even of his defeat at Leipzig, had eventually reached the inhabitants, but they were totally unaware of his escape from Elba and his defeat at Waterloo.
The island was ceded by the British East India Company to the Crown for the specific purpose of providing a place of confinement for Napoleon. It was agreed that the Company would pay an amount equal to its average annual expenditure and that the British Government would be responsible for any additional costs. When the 'Northumberland' dropped anchor in Jamestown on Sunday 15th October, 1815, the inhabitants flocked to the landing-stage, but were disappointed to learn that Napoleon would only disembark later. On Tuesday evening just after sunset, he stepped ashore to begin the last phase of his momentous life, the dreary and agonising five and a half years of his incarceration.
Longwood, a rambling old homestead on the windswept plain overlooking what was to be well-known as 'Deadwood' prisoner of war camp which accommodated some of the Boer War prisoners, was made over for his use. The property of Longwood, as well as the few acres where his tomb stands, was given to the French nation at the instigation of Queen Victoria. Longwood and the tomb are the most popular tourist attractions on St. Helena. The house, now a museum, is kept in spotless condition by a great Napoleonic scholar, the French Consul, Mr. Gilbert Martineau. The tomb is situated in the most peaceful surroundings. It is a nameless slab of concrete enclosed by a five-foot, heavy iron fence. Nearby is the little fountain from which Napoleon used to get his drinking water and where, he remarked shortly before his death, that should fate decree his recovery, he would have a monument erected in appreciation of the relief the cool water had given him. In his last testament he expressed the wish to be buried on the bank of the Seine in the midst of the French people he loved so dearly, but his wish was not to be fulfilled, for the arrogant governor of St. Helena, Sir Hudson Lowe, ordered that he be laid to rest on the island. He even prohibited the inscription on the tomb ... 'Napoleon, born 15 August 1769 at Corsica. Died 5th May 1821 at St. Helena'. He ordered that, as he did not know a prisoner by the name of Napoleon, the name, Bonaparte, should be inscribed. To this the French objected and had the entire inscription erased. Nineteen years later, his body was exhumed and transported to France where it was interred on the bank of the Seine. There it now reposes in great splendour in the heart of Paris which he loved so dearly.
To South Africans St. Helena brings memories of the thousands who spent their exile there during the 1899-1902 war. Little trace remains of the men who lived in 'Deadwood' and 'Broadbottom' camps. The latter was situated in one of the most charming spots on the island, about three miles from Jamestown, and was well sheltered from the prevailing winds. 'Deadwood', on the other hand, must have been one of the most desolate and forsaken places, exposed to perpetual wind and mists.
Not far from 'Broadbottom' is the graveyard where l67(1) prisoners were buried. It is kept in perfect condition. The graves, laid out with neat, military precision, are all unnamed, but numbered. There are two which carry the identity of those interred in them. A plain white wooden cross, marking one of them, is inscribed, "In Memory of J. H. Boshoff", while the other carries a wooden tablet marked,
'Monument
Pieter Johannes
Badenhorst
van
Wepner, O.V.Staat
Gestorven in den Heer
op 4-5-1901
in den ouderdom van
28 jaren(2)
Gestorven als een held
voor zijn vaderland
Opgericht door zijn oom
S.D.D. DE KOCK.
The last surviving sister of Pieter Johannes Badenhorst lives in Wepener and recently was still able to give a full description of her brother's life before he joined the Free State forces and was taken prisoner when General Piet Cronje surrendered.
The graves are arranged in neat terrace-like rows on a steep incline of about 40 degrees, and it is almost impossible to reach the top row from the bottom unless rubber-soled shoes are worn. At the bottom two imposing red-brown granite monuments record the grave numbers, names and ages of the dead. One of these was erected by the prisoners while they were detained there, whilst the second was put up by the Union Government during 1913.
Few of the men who survived are still alive today, but the veteran 92-year old Job Cordier relates, 'Man, they can say what they like, but the English were damn good to us.' Mr Cordier, who was one of General Cronje's bodyguard, still reads and writes without the 'nuisance of glasses except at night when I have to make use of this nonsense'. He must have been a lively, jovial little man and soon made friends in Jamestown and earned the attention of Mr Barclay, the hotel proprietor. Mr Barclay obtained permission from the authorities to employ young Cordier in his hotel. Another veteran, Mr Human of Brandfort, recollects, 'We got so much meat that we swopped it with the islanders for vegetables.'
The inhabitants of St. Helena first learned of the coming of Boer prisoners of war from a proclamation by the Governor, R. A. Sterndale, dated 5th April, 1900, in which he expressed the hope 'that the inhabitants will treat the prisoners with that courtesy and consideration which should be extended to all men who have fought in what they considered the cause of their country'. His appeal was not in vain. When the S.S. 'Milwaukee' landed on 14th April, 1900, with 514 prisoners, including General Piet Cronje, Mrs Cronje and his military staff; some of the men shrank from the march through Jamestown, but their spirits rose when those, who could read English, spread the story of the proclamation. They appreciated the reaction of the inhabitants who watched them in silence and, instead of jeering, greeted them with quiet salutations. General Cronje and Mrs Cronje were accommodated in a double-storeyed cottage a few miles outside the town. Known as 'Kent Cottage', it is at present occupied by the Graham family. Like so many of the buildings and landmarks on the island, it has not changed at all.
A week after the 'Milwaukee', the steamship, 'Lake Erie' arrived with another batch of 394 prisoners including 34 officers. On 1st May the transport ship, 'Bavarian' brought 1 099 men. The last ship to bring prisoners was the 'Mongolian' when it landed 649 men on 3rd February, 1901 bringing the total to that date to 4 689 men.
It must have been a great trial for these hardy men, the great majority of whom were farmers, used to the free, open life of the country, and later to roaming at large on active service, to adapt themselves to the sudden change and a strange environment. It seems that they soon found their feet although a few hotheads did cause trouble. Towards the end of February 1901, a very determined attempt to escape was made by a few, the ringleader being a grandson of President Kruger, Commandant P. Eloff. The escapees had only a meagre supply of rations, when they seized an old fishing boat at Sandy Bay. The fishermen, who owned the boat, had just landed, and were soon overcome but they succeeded in keeping the oars. The undaunted party broke up the floorboards of the boat to provide them with oars, but they had no sooner put to sea than they realised their foolhardiness and returned to the jetty. They tried to persuade the fishermen to hand over the oars by offering them cash, but the latter, with some resource, succeeded in delaying an agreement to enable a messenger to reach 'Broadbottom' camp and report the incident. A patrol was rushed to the scene and the fugitives were arrested.
The number of prisoners was swollen during the beginning of 1902 with the arrival of the 'Orient' with 1 050 prisoners and the 'Brittania' with 39 officers, among them General Ben Viljoen. The death rate of approximately 3%, is proof that the conditions under which the prisoners lived on the island were of a high order.
On 1st June 1901 came the cable, 'Peace', but with no details. The English immediately started celebrations, convinced that the long and costly war had ended in their favour. The prisoners, on the other hand, were equally certain that they had won the struggle for their independence. The following day the full text of the peace terms arrived and was published in English and Dutch. The first batch of men left the island on board the 'Canada' on 26th June. The Governor addressed them before their departure and commended them for their loyalty and co-operation during the years of captivity. In concluding his address the Governor said, 'You have been here now for over two years and we part with you with regret. We have admired the fortitude and constancy with which you have borne exceptional trials, and I feel that among you I am parting with some personal friends of whose welfare in the future I shall always be glad to hear.' Commandant Jooste replied on behalf of the prisoners, thanking the Governor and the authorities for the consideration and kindness extended to them during the years they were together under strange and difficult conditions. General Cronje took the Oath of Allegiance on 30th June. He requested the authorities to be allowed to retain his guard as many of the prisoners, still obdurate, were rather bitter against him. In the company of 994 men, he left the island on the 'Tagus' on 22nd August. During the ensuing weeks there were many incidents which demonstrated the good feeling which prevailed between the prisoners and military authorities. Dr Casey commended their appreciation and gratitude for even the slightest attention and went on to say that, far from grumbling or complaining, they were more disposed to hide their troubles and ailments and suffer in silence. The last of those, who took the oath, departed on 21st October, leaving behind only the 'Cape rebels' and a few unpardoned hotheads. Perhaps the best known POW, who refused to return, not for political reasons, but because he took such a liking to the island and its peaceful way of life, was Charlie Smith. He was of Irish origin and presumably a member of the Irish Brigade. Being industrious and gifted with a keen sense of business, Smith soon found his feet and within a few years became a popular figure in the social life as well as in official circles. He attained the rank of Captain in the St. Helena Regiment, became a member of the Legislative Council, a prominent business man and a property owner. The present bakery was founded by Smith who, as a leading citizen of the island, became a prosperous man. The death of his wife seems to have driven him off the rails, and he lost interest in business matters and eventually all his possessions. He died a few years ago, virtually a pauper.
Checking the names of those who died reveals that the youngest prisoner was R.S. Meyer (grave No.76) whose age was 16 years.(3) The oldest was A.A. Meiring (grave No.91) aged 74 years. There is also the grave (number not given on the monument erected by the Union Government) of Dr G.A. Harmse, age 20. If this was his correct age, the young man must have been a brilliant scholar.
The Anglican Church refused consecrated ground for a cemetery because the prisoners were 'enemies of Her Majesty'. Fortunately the Baptist Church felt differently and granted ground for a cemetery near its stately building overlooking the now well-cared for burial ground. The building was also put at the disposal of the prisoners for the conduct of their religious services. Today this Church has only about 100 adherents, but it still ministers and owns another imposing building in the heart of Jamestown. The islanders attach great importance to religion, and there are several churches on the island of which the Anglican Church dominates the spiritual scene, with a total of 4200 parishioners, followed by the Baptists, Jehovah's Witnesses and the Salvation Army, each with a membership of about 100; the Seventh Day Adventists with 65 members, and the Roman Catholic Church with a meagre following of twelve. The latest 'religion' is 'Two-by-Two' with eight members! Notwithstanding the small membership of most of the Churches, each is active in its own sphere and, with the exception of the latter, each owns the building in which regular and well-attended services are conducted.
Descendants of those who died on St. Helena can rest assured that their last resting places are kept in good order and this also seems to be the case with those other far-away graves in Ceylon and the Bermudas. The cemetery at St. Helena was indeed well chosen on the steep, peaceful, green slope in the quiet countryside, away from the rush and noise of traffic and scurrying crowds.
EDITORS' NOTES
1. The number of names on the two monuments is 175 according to
the lists provided by the author, although it is possible that some names
have been duplicated. One such case appears to be that of J.C. Schoeman
aged 44, unless there were two persons with the same name both aged 44.
2. According to the list of names provided by the author Badenhorst
is shown as aged 25 unless there were two men by this name with the same
initials.
3. The monument erected by the Union Government reflects that S.A.
Harmse was also aged 16 years.
The monument, erected by the prisoners, bears the following inscription and 109 names with grave numbers.
GEDENKSTEEN
ter gedachtenis van de overleden Republiekeinsche krygsgevangenen door
hun broeder krygsgevangenen opgereicht
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The second monument,erected by the South African Government in 1913
bears the following inscription and 66 names without grave numbers
In memory of prisoners of war whose names are inscribed hereunder
who died at St.Helena
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zullen met gejuich maaien Psalm CXXVI-5 |
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Reap in Joy Psalm CXXVI-5 |